Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Trip 5: Day 29 (Newton & Des Moines)

The rain was more persistent today. I had planned on driving to Des Moines, parking, then biking downtown, but the rain just never stopped. So I ate lunch and did laundry. It had to be done.

Newton:
Newton is a larger town and formerly home to a large Maytag plant, which was the region's top employer until it was shut down in 2004. The site is now partially an industrial park and part a college extension, both for Des Moines Area Community College and Iowa State University. I didn't go down there on this trip, but had in November, and not all of it is occupied. Large portions, like the former Maytag retail outlet store at the back of the formidable brick building, sit vacant. The site sits close to the downtown area, which is a courthouse square arrangement ringed with occupied businesses. There is a cinema, a Jimmy John's, two coffee shops, a diner, a deli and several other shops. I've always been curious how Newton has maintained relative economic health despite losing such a large employer.
When I went into one of those coffee shops, Uncle Nancy's, it was full, with the two women behind the counter struggling to keep up with the rush. Large tables were full with mostly older people, with only a slight skew toward women. Catching snippets of conversation, it seemed to be mostly daily innocuous gossip about job developments, births, illnesses, etc. Most importantly, the place was full, and the shop did a very brisk business. The coffee was decent and cheap.
Maytag Dairy Farm
A strange and separate piece of the Maytag legacy is the dairy, still owned by the family. The son of the Maytag who started the appliance dynasty, for whatever reason, became interested in making cheese, and built aging caves into the side of the hills at their family farm north of town. Those caves and the original farmhouse still constitute most of the Maytag Dairy, while a newer, smaller building just above those buildings to the south stands as the retail store, visitors center and business office. This is where you're directed to buy cheese. As I entered, a woman got up from a desk to greet me. I was told that this was the cheapest I would find it anywhere. I paid $4 for a 4oz block of blue. Maytag Blue is considered to be one of the best domestic blue cheeses available and, though they produce other cheeses, I sampled those and wasn't really wowed by any of them. The blue cheese was why I came.

Near I-80 west of Newton
West of Newton
From Newton, US 6 heads south and joins Interstate 80 to head west toward Des Moines, not leaving just before reaching that city. Former US 6 is indicated by one of the historical route markers at Newton. It continues west along the same road as County Road F48, and mostly follows I-80 closely.




Colfax:
Colfax has interested me because, although it looks a lot like other tiny towns along US 6 in Iowa, it's extremely hilly. You don't really notice the hills until you get to the main intersection in town, where you reach a three-way stop: traffic coming up the hill from town does not stop. As you descend toward the Skunk River, the more original part of the town is there, though it's just a small clearing and the town seems to have quickly expanded across the relatively large hills. Colfax was a coal mining town, and the mines operated until at least 1910. The town likely isn't as prosperous as it once was, but things are still occupied.
Atop the highest hill in town is a cemetery and what appeared to be a TV tower.
Colfax
Des Moines:
Entering Des Moines metro from the east, former US 6 (8th Street in Altoona) comes within just a few blocks of the Adventureland theme park, one of just a few family-owned parks left in the country. I've never seen Adventureland open, as I've never been in the summer, but it's a pretty massive park. There's quite a tourist development just outside the park, with retail, restaurants and hotels.
Des Moines is heavily centered
around its interstates, and these
signs are everywhere
Just after the intersection with the relatively new US 65 bypass, former US 6 intersects the current US 6 at Hubbell Avenue, then turns southwest. This was also formerly US 65, and carried that route southwest all the way to Downtown Des Moines. US 6 originally followed it there, but now turns to go west at Euclid Avenue, avoiding Downtown. This was rerouted at some point in the 1940's, with the original routing becoming "City 6." I had followed the route through town before, so I now followed the current routing, along Euclid Avenue, south on Merle Hay Road, then west on Hickman to leave the city.
I stopped at a HyVee on Euclid to get some lunch, but also to use their wifi. Supermarkets sometimes have cafe areas, and this one was definitely trying to be a comfortable restaurant. As noon came closer, the large group of old men forming a sort of breakfast club left, and various other groups came in, one of which sat near me and gossiped and told stories of their past.
US 6 & the laundromat
Since the rain continued, I found a laundromat on US 6 with wifi. I was pretty low on clothes, so it was necessary. The laundromat was warm, quiet and relatively cheap. And the wifi worked as well as laundromat wifi can. When I'm on the road, I tend to seek out these places. To find them, I'll typically just type in "laundromat wifi" into a Google search, or just look on Yelp, as the type of people who appreciate free wifi when having to wait often are quite active on Yelp. But these tend to be relegated to cities, so you have to time your laundry needs somewhat carefully.
US 6 leaves Des Moines via Urbandale, a mess of suburban sprawl. Hickman Road slowly becomes a four-lane highway through farms, picks up speed and eventually enters Adel.

Adel:
Adel has a courthouse square style downtown area, and is extremely cute. There's a lot of money in Adel, and the only thing of significance here as far as employers that I can tell is a brick factory, so it's likely that people working in Des Moines live here. There's a coffee shop, a toffee shop, a Mexican restaurant and several shops. There don't appear to be any vacant shops. The south and west sides of the square are more developed, with the east side part of US 169. I stopped and bought toffee at the shop that also sold gelatto. Almost $10 for a small bag, but it's good toffee.

US 6 heads south to again join Interstate 80, while the original US 6 continues west along the same route as County Road F60. After Adel, there are a string of tiny towns along US 6.

Redfield is skipped by the route, though it's possible that it originally went through the town. There's very little there but a typical small town business district.
Dexter is only notable for the sign along former US 6 pointing to its business district, which is a green arrow with the town's name, partially illuminated by a neon light on its outline.
Stuart is comparatively larger, with just over 1,500 residents. School was letting out when I drove through, and students from the high school just east of town were walking back into town along the side of the road.
Menlo is mostly notable for its old-style gas station, which no longer sells gas. The business district is just north of the former US 6.
Casey seems to be a more economically depressed town, with its business district mostly empty. I had read about this town on my last trip as an antique stop, though there did not appear to be any antique stores left. Maybe they're only open in the summer. There is a small gas station and a grain elevator.
Adair. The water tower is visible in
the center of the picture
A turn to the south, and you're in Adair County, then immediately into the town of Adair, which is not the county seat. Adair is known for its water town: a large smiley face, playing on the town's unofficial motto of "the happiest place on earth."
Here, former US 6 turns again to go west, then turns southwest toward Anita, Wiota and the larger Atlantic.





From Dexter to Adair, the former US 6 follows what's known as the White Pole Road. The railroads were originally followed by telegraph lines. To denote this route and separate it from other which also followed the railroads (before highway numbers and signs), the telegraph poles were painted white at their bases.



Near Adair
After Adair, the cold, the rain and the fatigue started getting to me, so I just jumped on I-80 to reach Council Bluffs. I have many more pictures of these towns, and I'll be back here soon.
The section between Adair and Atlantic is fairly nice. It's hilly and rural. Atlantic has a fairly large downtown area, with a historic Rock Island depot at its north end. Oakland has some beautiful architecture along its main street, centered around a historic opera house. This was one of many opera houses around the Midwest, built in the mid- and late 19th century before the days of cinema to provide weekend entertainment to those in the community from a variety of acts that traveled the country. Many of these opera houses still exist but very few are still used as theaters.

Today's route:

Monday, April 28, 2014

Trip 5: Day 28 (Iowa City)

Here's a bit of boring route history. If you want to know what I did today, scroll down until you reach the dotted line. But first, pictures of Iowa landscape



Following US 6, even its original form, through Illinois is actually pretty easy. There have been very few route changes in 60+ years, and most of it is well-signed and obvious. There are a few turns, but they're usually at stop signs or in the middle of towns, where your speed is a bit lower.
Iowa, on the other hand, is a bit tough. Entering into the state, there were two separate versions of US 6.
From a 1956 Shell map
Originally (US 6 first appeared on maps of the region in 1932), US 6 ran over the Government Bridge, a shared road-railway drawbridge that spans the Mississippi River via Rock Island (the island, as opposed to the city). In 1935 though, the Iowa-Illinois Memorial Bridge opened, and US 6 was re-routed onto it. In 1959, a second span opened, making up what is today known locally as the "I-74 Bridge," as it carries Interstate 74, which was created in the 1970's. But US 6 is still on that bridge. Prior to that, US 6 is easy to follow: from its current turn north at the Quad Cities Airport, it went west on 1st Avenue East, joined US 67 to bridge the Rock River, then continued north to Downtown Rock Island before turning east on 1st Avenue to reach the Government Bridge. After crossing the river, US 6 likely (I don't have sources, though I'm pretty certain from later maps) went west through Davneport on 2nd Street, turned north on Marquette Avenue and west on Locust Street (both turns were Iowa Route 122 in the 1950's, which likely took the place of the old route of US 6), then turned northwest at the five-way Marquette/Division/Hickory Grove intersection along Hickory Grove Road. That's a lot of turns.
The more recent routing followed today's 27th Street north toward Moline, then making a slight left on 19th Street toward the bridge. After crossing into Iowa, it became today's Kimberly Road, going north, then west, to meet the old route at the current intersection of Kimberly and Hickory Grove Roads in northwestern Davenport. The problem with this route is that there is very little left of a lot of these streets due to construction of Interstate 74. Many of the streets just do not go through. The section of roadway on both sides of the bridge is more or less gone, with no evidence left.
In 1956, US 6 had a "City" routing that extended through Davenport and Bettendorf, mostly along the older routing, with the exception that it followed US 67 between the two cities. There is also a "City" routing in Des Moines, with one route making a sort of bypass of the center of the city.

West of Davenport though, it continues to get a bit confusing. Kimberly Road passes Interstate 280 and continues along as Scott County Road F58, forming the boundary between Muscatine and Scott Counties. Some maps here will show Iowa State Route 927, which used to run from Interstate 280 to the current US 6 west of Wilton, but it was randomly removed about ten years ago and transferred to Muscantine and Scott Counties, leaving Wilton and Durant without 
There are many other turns in Iowa though. US 6, for several miles in eastern Iowa, follows Interstate 80. The original route mostly sits several miles south of I-80, bisecting a number of small towns, like Colfax and Mitchellville.
Historic US 6 route sign
However, thanks to the efforts of the Route 6 Tourist Association in Iowa, the original routing of US 6 is easier to follow, thanks to the recent (2013) placement of a number of route markers, leading you through the small towns and past the various twists in the road.




Near West Liberty
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Today was meant to be about Iowa City, but the weather seemed to want me to do other things. In the morning, a light mist started. The sort of mist that makes you squint your eyes out of discomfort. Then, around 11, it got really, really windy. Gusts were about 40mph, and, despite not being that cold outside, it was uncomfortable to sit. So I ended up indoors a lot today.
One indoor place was the Herbert Hoover National Historic Park in West Branch. I have a thing about hitting presidential parks, and this one is only a few miles north of US 6, coincidentally right off of Interstate 80. So I couldn't not hit it. In fact, US 6 is quite the presidential highway: Garfield, Hayes, Harding, Van Buren, Hoover and even Reagan have national park sites dedicated to them that are just a few miles from US 6.
Hoover's historic park was quite impressive. There was a visitors center, a museum and his gravesite, but they also had a large part of the town blocked out as a pedestrian mall lined with preserved homes, including his birthplace, a two-room cottage. West Branch itself was a very cute town.
Iowa City, in front of campus
In Iowa City, I was desperate to bike. Iowa, perhaps to distinguish itself, has the deserved reputation of being a bike destination, with miles of trails throughout the state. Iowa City, the quintessential college town of the state, has its own extensive network, mostly following the river as it snakes through town. However, as I pulled the bike out of the car and began to ride, I realized that the brakes were in a condition that made the bike somewhat dangerous to ride, particularly with Iowa City's sometimes steep hills. The bike shop said that I needed a new cable, so the total bill was $25. That was a bit disappointing, but it was well worth getting fixed. I biked around a bit more after that, then came back when the rain started to threaten. In fact, as I pulled up to the car, a couple of drops fell. However, the rain would hold off until later as the evening started.

Short's is a burger place that happens to have an excellent selection of beer. All of their 15+ taps are devoted to Iowa breweries, and they change constantly. When I went in, for instance, I was mainly looking for Toppling Goliath, a brewery from Decorah that multiple people have told me that I should try. They had five Toppling Goliaths. They also had a brewery Kalona listed that I was interested in. However, it was out, and replaced with a brewery from Solon, just north of Iowa City. They do pints, but also samples for $1-2 for a 5oz pour. Overall, it's a pricey place, but it was nice to find a place where I could try several Iowa breweries without spending a fortune or getting wasted.
I only had about 30 minutes at Short's. The parking meters in that area are 1 hour maximum and $1.50 per hour, so it was a bit pricey and complex to stay there. I shouldn't be spending all my time in bars anyway.

Just as the sign indicates, that is a
vending machine for LIVE BAIT.
I got close, and that is, indeed, what it is.
Marengo
The place was to drive to Mariposa County Park, northeast of Newton, and sleep. However, as the rain came down yesterday, I decided to just sleep in the car since it would be too muddy to camp. When you try to camp in the mud, not only do you get your tent filthy, but the stakes also have trouble staying in unless you're in rocky soil. And Iowa does not have rocky soil. So, as I drove from Iowa City to Grinnell, the rain started pouring down.
I paused in Grinnell to think about the situation. It was the last town before I was to drive north to the campsite. Grinnell is a liberal college town, an insular little spot on the map where the children of the wealthy can be groomed away from the dangers of normal society. Grinnell is the sort of place, as the husband of an academic, that I fear the most. I think that, if we ever wound up in a place like that, I would have no choice but to have at least four kids, just to keep myself busy and away from the really horrible people that tend to populate these places.
Some of these people were in the restaurant where I sat and drank my bad French wine. I watched in pour down and listened to the sort of conversations that I was accustomed to hearing in Bloomington, plus one next to me between two students who, I guess, assumed that I didn't speak any Spanish (it was not about me and was pretty tame, mostly about their boyfriends and getting married, so I don't know why they thought they needed to keep it secret), and switched between pretentious white girl English and EspaƱol de Gringa, with me just listening at selected intervals. For the most part, I sat, watched the rain and sipped my wine and water. The restaurant was hosting a "physics banquet" for the college's end of year celebration, and awkward physics majors kept showing up early.
When the rain calmed down a bit, I walked back to the car, and moved it around town attempting to find the wifi signal that I was picking up. By then, I had decided to book the Super 8 in nearby Newton, waiving the white flag of defeat. The rain has won this round.

Near Atalissa
West Liberty
I stopped at a Mexican bakery in West Liberty. I spoke
Spanish to the woman there initially, but she responded in
English. I typically take that as a sign that they want to
speak English. She did not seem excited about me buying
the cream donut that I did. It was good though.

Near West Liberty
Near Iowa City
The sign for the Amana Colonies
Homestead, the only of the several Amana Colonies to
be directly on US 6
Homestead

Near Victor
Near Victor
The drive today:

Sunday, April 27, 2014

Trip 5: Day 27 (Starved Rock State Park & Davenport)

It's a little late and I have a bunch of pictures, so I'm going to keep it a bit more brief and just upload the pictures.
The rain was mostly minor throughout the day. When I crossed to Iowa though, it started pouring and it has yet to stop. I'm glad I'm not camping. I'm actually in a little, cheap motel in Wilton, Iowa, on the old (but not current) US 6. Camping will be tomorrow.
House being built in Channahon, IL

Bridge over canal in Marseilles, IL
Viewed from Illini State Park
Marseilles Lock & Dam on
Illinois River
Illinois River in Marseilles, ILIllinois River in Marseilles, ILAbandoned factory in Marseilles, IL
I hit lunchtime in Ottawa, which is one of the larger towns along US 6 in Illinois west of Chicago. The downtown area had a square with a beautiful fountain, topped with a statue of Lincoln and Douglas. I guess this was the site of one of the famous Lincoln/Douglas debates during that senate campaign in 1858. The town makes quite a big deal out of it, as evidenced by this park. There's also a building a block away, with a large sign indicating that Lincoln had slept there.
Ottawa's Lincoln/Douglas parkDowntown Ottawa, IL
I ate at the Bee Hive, a small Greek diner in Downtown Ottawa. The early lunch crowd was mostly families, with a couple of other tables with just men alone. I sat at the counter. The server seemed overly smiley and the cook behind the counter, who may have been the owner, kept looking at me. I wondered if this was the sort of place where everyone knew everyone, and no one from outside the small town came in.
These Greek diners are everywhere in the Midwest. The food is typically good, quick and exceptionally cheap. They have light Greek food, like gyros and Greek salads, but also diner standards, like burgers, patty melts and chili. This was really cheap. I had a "Denver sandwich," which is just a Denver omelette between two pieces of toast, that came with pickle chips and potato chips, and cost $6 with tax.
As I left Ottawa to move on to Starved Rock State Park, I saw more people coming out, perhaps on their way out from church, or perhaps just waking up. I don't usually see that many people walking around in a small town like Ottawa, so that was really nice to see. Quite a few people had gathered at the little movie theater, but others were going in and out of shops.
There was what looked like a really nice coffee shop, Jeremiah Joe. It had a really large space, and was open on Sunday at noon, which is a huge plus to me. I didn't need any coffee though, so I didn't stop in.

A mural: "Ottawa celebrates the 1950's; a great decade"
There are 0 non-white people in the mural
LaSalle County Courthouse in Ottawa, IL
Starved Rock State Park:

If you look closely, there's an eagle at the top of the tree on the right side of the island. It sat atop the tree while it's baby flew up and down, up and down, practicing flying. Baby eagles are black until they're about 3 months old.
Eagles nest (the nest is not seen here, but is on the left side of the island) here rarely, it seems, though there are hundreds of them in January, when they come to fish. The dam just upstream means that the river does not freeze in this immediate area, leaving a good supply of fish in the otherwise scarce month.
Wildflower tour:
Blue Bells



Pontiac Canyon

Wildcat Canyon:





Entering Iowa:
Pictures along the drive:
Joliet, ILJoliet, IL, where old Route 66 (the street I'm on here) meets
old Route 6

Marseilles, IL
LaSalle, IL
Spring Valley, IL






Davenport, IA
Davenport, IA
Davenport, IA
Davenport, IA
Today's route: