Friday, April 11, 2014

Trip 5: Day 11 (Cleveland, Sandusky, Fremont, Bryan)

Williams County, Ohio is the last county in the state that US 6 passes through on its way west. It sits nestled against Indiana in a shape that looks like a coupon insert in the newspaper that's had two or three coupons cut out of a corner. Aside from blazing through it on the Ohio Turnpike, you would never know it's there. Even people in Ohio rarely know Williams County, or its seat, Bryan.

Bryan is where I am tonight, in a small motor court on US 127, halfway between the old US 6 that goes past the Williams County Courthouse, and the new US 6, that bypasses Bryan altogether by several miles. I specifically chose Bryan because it's one of several small towns in the country that I feel offer the truest sort of Americana that's available in the modern day. Bryan exhales America, and represents almost all of the elements that go along with that ideal: stately, well-kept homes sporting American flags; quiet neighborhood streets where people come out and walk on long summer evenings; a town square ringed with small shops, restaurants and a cinema... Are there any bad points about Bryan or these other communities? Of course. In fact, a lot of those points would contradict with that ideal Americana. Cynically, I've always looked at this ideal and have come to the conclusion that it never really existed. What it is selective nostalgia, where the positive experiences are remembered while the negative experiences are not recalled. It's human nature to do this, and I think those seeking that sort of "Mayberry" atmosphere in places are trying to re-create something that can never exist in reality. But I really like Bryan, and that's why I come back here. The people are nice, the town is pleasant, and there are things to do here.

However, Bryan is unfortunately on what I consider to be the most boring stretch of US 6 in the country, from Sandusky, Ohio to roughly Kendallville, Indiana. It's endless, flat cornfields, indistinguishable little towns, and a road that only has occasional, senseless curves. This is the flat but fertile Great Lakes plain. Bryan is not on US 6 anymore. US 6 runs 2.3 miles south of High & Main Streets, where US 6 was routed until after about 1957. The current US 6, at that time, was State Route 384, while the old US 6 into Bryan is now State Route 34. US 6 went out of the way a bit to reach Bryan, so this may have been just to straighten it out. That's actually kind of a theme for US 6 in Northwest Ohio. In the next town over, Napoleon, US 6 sits on a freeway bypass with US 24, in place since the 1970's. The next town after that, Bowling Green, has a slightly newer bypass which straightens US 6 out and avoids the town completely. In the case of Bowling Green, there is no sign to indicate the old route; it's not a signed business route, and there is no sign at the turn-off directing traffic to Bowling Green.

The exit for US 6 east off the Napoleon
bypass has a control city of Chicago.
Apparently this sign was changed
within the last couple of years.
I skipped Napoleon, but I've driven through it before. It's a nice town. The Maumee River, a designated state scenic river, is very pretty there. But I drove through Bowling Green, as I have in the past. It's a typical Midwestern college town, though Bowling Green State's campus has continued to push east toward Interstate 75 over the years. Former US 6, State Route 64 west of I-75, and Wooster Street in Bowling Green, is the major commercial strip in town. This is where I've stayed in the past, at the Hampton Inn.

Heinz has a factory in Fremont
Entering Fremont, as US 6 turns off
on to the bypass
I spent a bit of time in Fremont also, stopping at the Rutherford B. Hayes Presidential Center, also known as Spiegel Grove. At least here, Hayes does not get a national park, and the center is privately-run and charges an admission. Spiegel Grove, which is a fenced in, triangle-shaped piece of land in the middle of Fremont and on former US 6, seems to be heavily used by the local community as a public park. There were people walking, kids biking, and an annoying older man taking pictures of his much younger Vietnamese girlfriend. I just didn't have time to go in. But you won't see any pictures of the Hayes Center because, when I downloaded pictures in Cleveland this morning, I forgot to take out the SD card and put it back into my camera. So I took pictures of the Hayes Center and of Lake Erie that were not stored. Oh well.
I was told while in Warren that trout season opened today, and it very clearly had in Fremont, where at least 20 men stood in waders in the middle of Sandusky River. The river is a concrete channel there, so it was interesting to see that in what looks like just a large drainage ditch.

Fremont also has a US 6 bypass (keep going with the theme), but I took the old route. Originally (I need to research the dates), US 6 run along Fifth Street to State Street, historically US 20, where it turned west to cross the Sandusky River. After going through Downtown Fremont, it took a left onto Napoleon Street, which becomes Napoleon Road west of town, and eventually dips south to join the modern US 6. Napoleon Street splits off at an interesting brick building, now housing a bar. It's one-way going west for a block, but was likely two-way when US 6 was routed there.
At some point later on, a new bridge was built, redirecting US 6 south past State Street to go over the Hayes Avenue Bridge. Westbound traffic was directed north two blocks onto the one-way Birchard Avenue, while eastbound traffic followed Hayes Avenue. After a few blocks, there's a clear point where US 6's westbound traffic likely went southwest on Buckland Avenue and rejoined Hayes Avenue, right in front of the Hayes Presidential Center. As you follow Hayes Avenue west out of town, you eventually intersect the bypass and rejoin modern US 6.
Hayes Avenue BridgeState/Napoleon Street intersectionFront Street in Downtown Fremont
Front Street in Downtown FremontTrout season in the Sandusky RiverBirchard Avenue in Fremont
I realized that, while I gave myself four days in Pennsylvania, I only had two in Ohio. The justification is that I had never been to that part of Pennsylvania, while I've traveled to this part of Ohio (especially Cleveland) several times.

My Cleveland morning started at one of my favorite coffee shops, Gypsy Beans & Bakery on Detroit Avenue (historic US 6, now signed as "Alternate" US 6) in the Detroit-Shoreway neighborhood. The shop has large windows that face out onto the avenue, with a bar where you can sit and just watch life in the interesting neighborhood go by. The coffee is great and their house-made baked goods are excellent.

For lunch, I hit one of my standards: Buckeye Beer Engine in Lakewood. Close but not on US 6 (Madison Avenue), it's a brewpub that has an always excellent selection of guest taps, good and very cheap food, and a nice atmosphere. Plus, they'll do samples (for a price) of all the beer they have on tap, so you can try different ones without buying a full flight or only having some that they select. I had a meatloaf sandwich and a sample of a new Cleveland brewery, Portside, which apparently opened as a distillery in the East Side Flats, and has more recently started brewing their own beer. It was tasty, but it was no Great Lakes. I missed Great Lakes this time, but I picked a 4-pack of a specialty beer here in Bryan this evening to take back to California, since this may be the last time I see it. It's completely unavailable in Indiana, and is not very common in Illinois. I wish I had more time in Cleveland, but I'll be back soon. I always come back.
Cleveland Cultural Gardens
This is one of the several things
that initially got me in love with the
city.
MLK Drive as it goes through the
Cleveland Cultural Gardens
The Shoreway as it approaches
Downtown Cleveland
Lake Erie from the Shoreway (SR 2)
Browns Stadium is on the right
The Shoreway passes within spitting
distance of several Downtown
office buildings
Lake Erie from the Shoreway
US 6 & US 20 join State Route 2
in the Ohio City neighborhood at
West 25th before reaching Clifton
Boulevard and leaving the city.
Detroit Avenue, Alternate US 6Detroit Avenue, Alternate US 6
Merry-Go-Round Museum
Road to Cedar Point
From about Avon to Sandusky, US 6 is flat but very pretty. It closely follows the lakeshore, and you can watch the stately homes drop to trailer parks, and then to farms as you head west. In Sandusky, US 6 makes a northwestern jog to reach the downtown area via Cleveland Road, Warren Avenue, and Huron Avenue. Near the center of town, it turns southwest onto Washington Street, past the Merry Go Round Museum inside the old post office, and passing a nice park-like boulevard. Washington Street turns in an almost 125-degree southwesterly direction on Tiffin Avenue. US 6 then turns west on Venice Avenue, while Tiffin Avenue continues to intersect State Route 2 as State Route 101. Another left turn soon after, and you're on Fremont Avenue and, once you cross State Route 2, you're on your way to Fremont.
There are a number of nature
preserves on US 6 that offer light
hiking
US 6 as it approaches SanduskyUS 6, routing from Warren Street
on to Huron Avenue
US 6 as it turns from Huron Avenue
on to Washington Street
Washington Street in SanduskyUS 6 as it turns on to Tiffin Avenue
There are actually several ways to reach these islands by boat, and another one of them is from Lorain, which is the closest point to Cleveland. Sandusky is tough, but Lorain is tougher. Though it's the largest city in a relatively wealthy county and on the edge of the more wealthy westshore Cleveland suburbs, it's had a tough go recently because of the industrial closures typical of most cities in Ohio. In the case of Lorain, it's a Ford plant that closed in 2005, and an old US Steel mill that finally shut down (after gradually dropping production to almost nothing, then being sold) in 2008. Lorain is working to diversity its economy but, like many other cities where large-scale industry has left, healthcare is Lorain's largest employer at the moment.
Sandusky is a fairly tough blue-collar town, though its business district seems to be doing okay. Cedar Point likely keeps things somewhat prosperous, with its resulting motels, restaurants and tacky tourist shops on the outskirts of town. In fact, you're directed to leave State Route 2 on to US 6 in order to reach Cedar Point. However, it's probably a lot quicker to go to the next exit. It's likely that this routing has been kept by the local business interests, since the businesses servicing Cedar Point crowds were originally on US 6/Cleveland Road, and it would be detrimental to them if people no longer used this route. The Jet Express ferry service to Kelleys Island and Put-in-Bay, tourist-oriented islands in Lake Erie, likely also keeps people coming into Sandusky, as the landing is right in the center of town.
US 6 bridge over the Vermillion RiverVermillion, OhioThe Patio Bar is what's left of
"Midget City," which appears on
the 1956 Shell map of Ohio.
Huron, Ohio
One of the last small lakeshore towns
before Sandusky
Huron, Ohio. The Lake Erie Coastal
Trail turns here to follow Cleveland
Road. I didn't think about it, but US 6
probably also turned here at one
time. Now it goes straight.
US 6, after Huron, joins SR 2 for
about a mile before exiting again.
Ice cream maker with a tasting room
just west of Sandusky
US 6 as it turns on to Fremont Avenue
Lorain to Lakewood is a very nice stretch of road and very pleasant to drive. It follows the lakeshore, and is mostly large, older homes, shaded, quiet neighborhoods, and the occasional pocket beach park. This time, I cheated and didn't drive it. But I was short on time, and I had been on this route at least twice in the past.

Other random US 6 shots from today:







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